gothiclolita Blog and Journals

I'm getting ready to go to the Queer Prom. Me and my darling Moses will be fashionably late, and I mean fashionable in every sense of the word. I can't wait to upload photos! This is going to be quite a night. Plus there will be drunkenness.

So yes, expect photos of much debauchery and slanderous sights. :-P This will be better than Senior Prom. Fucking love college. ^_^

GOTHIC LOLITA

Gothic Lolita or "GothLoli" (ゴスロリ, gosurori; sometimes alternatively "Loli-Goth") is a youth fashion among Japanese teenagers and young women. It emphasizes Victorian-style girl's clothing and often aims to imitate the look of Victorian porcelain dolls. Gothloli's name and origin is a combination of lolita fashion—appearing deliberately cute to the point of looking childish—and certain styles found within gothic fashion. The style started as a youth subculture sometime around 1997-98 and became a well-established genre available in various boutiques and some major department stores by around 2001. Some observers consider it a reaction to the "Kogal" aesthetic.

Gothic Lolita is one of the subcategories of the Lolita look. Other categories include "Classic Lolita" (more traditional, light-coloured, also more mature-looking) and "Sweet Lolita" (childish pastel-coloured clothes, lots of lace and ribbons).

Gothic Lolita was influenced and popularised by the imagery of more feminine Visual Kei (or "visual rock") bands. Visual Kei is a Japanese form of rock music defined by bands featuring performers in elaborate costumes but whose musical style varies. Mana, the cross dressing former leader and guitarist of the Visual Kei band Malice Mizer is widely credited for having helped popularise Gothic Lolita. He coined the terms "Elegant Gothic Lolita" (EGL) and "Elegant Gothic Aristocrat" (EGA) to describe the style of his own fashion label Moi-même-Moitié, which was founded in 1999 and quickly established itself as one of the most coveted brands of the Gothic Lolita scene.

Gothic Lolita Pictures

See nearly 50 exclusive pictures of GothLoli in Harajuku.

Gothloli on Harajuku bridge

Gothic Lolita - The style

Goken Lolita style is usually a combination of black and white, often black with white lace and typically decorated with ribbons and lace trims. Skirts are knee length and may have a crinoline or petticoat to add volume. As in mainstream Japanese fashion, over-knee socks or stockings are extremely popular. Black fishnet stockings and white or black tights are also common. Shoes or boots with high heels - though not usually stiletto heels - such as Mary Janes, complete the look. Frilly, ruffled or lace-trimmed Victorian blouses are also popular especially with "EGL" types, who may also favour long skirts and jackets rather than the overtly "childish" designs of typical gothloli's. Apart from the occasional shortness of skirts, designs are usually modest, sometimes with long lace-capped sleeves.

Some additions may include an Alice in Wonderland-style apron, tiny top hats, parasols, lace gloves, and lace headpieces. Mostly black or white, headgear might consist of a headband with ruffles, ribbons, lace or bows. Sometimes even bonnets are worn. Hair may be curled to complete the porcelain doll look. The naturally dark Japanese hair color may be lightened to blonde or kept black. Some may choose to wear wigs as well.

Makeup is used sparingly and is seen more often with EGL styles than with other gothloli styles. Black eyeliner is typical. A pale complexion is preferred, so white foundation might be used. Red or black lipstick is seen but lighter makeup is the rule.

Goken Lolita outfits may be accessorized with other props like conspicuous pocketbooks, hatboxes, handbags and other bags, sometimes in the shape of bats, coffins, and crucifixes. Teddy bears and other stuffed animals are also common, and some brands make special "goken" teddy bears out of black leather or PVC. Also, many Goken Lolita own Super Dollfies and carry them around.

"Lolita"

Although "Lolita" is a reference to Vladimir Nabokov's famous novel, and GothLoli is often worn by teens, most followers of the style do not consider it overtly sexual. Adherents present themselves as Victorian children or baby dolls and prefer to look "cute" rather than "sexy". Many Lolitas claim that the term 'lolita' doesn't necessarily have anything to do with sex at all. The usage of the word may also be considered wasei-eigo.

Japanese culture places a higher value upon extremely youthful appearance and behaviour than Western, and some adult women buy large amounts of products, such as Hello Kitty goods, that are typically marketed only to children in the West. GothLoli is perhaps a more visible extension of this phenomenon.

Goth Loli culture

In Japan it is mass-marketed and has wide visibility particularly in the streets of Tokyo and Osaka, on television, in manga (see Paradise Kiss by Ai Yazawa for an example of gothloli inspired manga) and computer games. Outside of Japan it is still a fringe fashion although it has slowly begun to spread to other countries. Gothic Lolita, along with Cosplay and other Japanese cultural phenomena, can sometimes be seen at concerts and anime conventions throughout Europe and the United States. The style has not yet been mass marketed outside of Japan. However, there are plenty of dedicated fans filling the gap. Gothic Lolita magazines are widely available for purchase on the internet and at Japanese bookstores, which also deal in anime and manga. Adherents in Europe and the United States often sew their own homemade Gothic Lolita outfits, sometimes offering them for sale to make up for the difficulty of acquiring them from Japan.

Gothic Lolita in the West

Many Goth girls in the west, have borrowed from the Japanese goth loli style, and have created a market for this style of clothing (particulary in online auctions). Americas Tokyopop recently comissioned, along with performer Courtney Love (who is not goth/goth loli herself, but is a former Japanese resident) an original manga in the goth loli style, called Princess Ai. This was the first (at least publicised) Japan/West goth loli collaboration.

Gothic & Lolita Bible

One magazine in particular, the irregularly published Gothic & Lolita Bible, has played an instrumental role in promoting and standardizing the style. The 100+ page magazine includes fashion tips, photos, sewing patterns, catalog descriptions, decorating ideas, and even recipes.

Gothic Lolita - Shopping

Currently the heart of the Gothic Lolita subculture, at least commercially, is the Marui Young department store in Shinjuku, after its predecessor Marui One closed at the end of August 2004. This large youth-fashion oriented department store has 4 floors entirely devoted to Gothloli and related fashions.

Crossover with Goth

"Gothloli" as a fashion is not as strongly associated with a particular style of music or outside interests as goth, and individual followers of Gothloli fashion may listen to a wide variety of music including regular Japanese pop.

In Japan, Goth is a very minor subculture with few followers, partly because the emphasis upon visual identity in Japanese youth culture makes other factors such as music and literature less important signifiers and perhaps partly because Christianity and Germanic culture are not integral parts of society. In Japan, people who have heard the term "Goth" usually assume that it refers to "Gothic Lolita", except for the Goths themselves, who strongly emphasize the differences. (Likewise, some western observers incorrectly assume that "Gothloli" is the Japanese version of "Goth".)

However, due to the popularity of Gothloli from around 2001–2004 and its continued acceptance by many young girls, Goth nightclubs and events increasingly include Gothic Lolita elements in order to attract more customers. Thus many Japanese "Goth Clubs" will also feature a guest DJ playing J-pop and Visual Kei music, tea and cakes in the chill-out room, doll decorations, and other items designed to appeal to the Gothloli sense of European nostalgia.

Anime and Manga
Due to the popularity of this cute style with many fans of Japanese animation and comics, characters dressed in the "Gothloli" style may be found in numerous anime and manga. Some of the most prominent are Paradise Kiss, Le Portrait de Petit Cossette, Rozen Maiden, Tsukuyomi - Moon Phase, Othello, Chobits, xxxHOLiC, and Pitaten. Most of these titles appeal primarily to male fans rather than the gothlolis themselves. However, large numbers of gothloli girls are visible at manga events such as comiket. They often buy doujinshi based upon their favourite bands, dolls and movie characters; and some are interested in other kinds of cosplay apart from goth loli style.

Movies
The main character in Shimotsuma Monogatari (or Kamikaze Girls as it is known in the English language release) dressed in the "Gothloli" style.

I am so happy to announce that the gorgeous Tokyo Hardcore book featuring Davey and Jeffree is now available. We just finished the two month TOKYO HARDCORE TOUR starting at our brand new flagship store in Milan, then stopping at our jewel box store in Soho, NYC and finally the grand finale last night at our LA store on Melrose avenue. Please be sure to check out K-Ron's buzznet page to read up on all that happened at the LA party. Its still a blur as we only arrived back in LA 3 days before the event and were working 12 hour days to prepare for it. Call me crazy, but its so important that our guests enjoy every detail of our events that we go to extremes to make all the over the top ideas we come up with come to life. On this tour we did an installation of the dead android scene in the TH Book. For some of our guests it was a bit shocking but most everyone loved seeing a page from the book come to life. Once the show was over our LA guest took turns posing as "Amethyst" our sweet android from Tokyo Hardcore, photobooth style which included a moment between Clint Catalyst and Audrey Kitching's shoe that will go down in history. The party was hosted by myself one of the stars of Tokyo Hardcore, the enigmatic and gorgeous Davey Havok. We were all disappointed that our other star, uber gothic tokyo hardcore villianess Jeffree Star was in London on tour and could not make it. If you have a chance to stop by our LA store this week please check out the exhibits from our book in the shop. You can also pick up a copy of the book. Stay tuned for a behind the scenes look at the making of the Tokyo Hardcore Tour right here on Buzznet. xoxo&******sparkles!! Tarina

From now on, you can find all my journals about Gothic Lolita fashion on my website, www.lacarmina.com and on MySpace: www.myspace.com/la_carmina

I post frequently about Goth Loli clothing, books, art, and lifestyle, with tons of original style photos. Please check it out comments are always welcome!

LA CARMINA

JAPANESE SCHOOLGIRL INFERNO: Toyko Teen Fashion Subculture Handbook
>> by Izumi Evers and Patrick Macias; illustrated by Kazumi Nonaka
>> Chronicle Books (May 3, 2007) >> 144 pages paperback

I was charmed by this cheeky guide to Japanese schoolgirl style, from the sailor-suit gangstas of the 70s to the Dracula maidens of today. About twenty pages are dedicated to Goth Lolis and their precursors, the Nagomu indie chicks of the 80s. This section begins with an in-depth, photo-packed history, followed by an illustrated Profile (must-have items, ideal boyfriend, a day in the life). Key designers such as Moi-même-Moitié, Alice Auaa, Baby, The Star Shine Bright, and Vivienne Westwood are discussed.

Without question, most of these subcultures would never fly outside of Japan. A Kigurumin in Pikachu pajamas might be mistaken for a furry fetishist. A Gonguro, in blackface and six-inch-platforms, would get an angry call from the NAACP. Gothic Lolita, however, wouldn’t look too much out of place in the West. (Of course, the foof would have to be toned down; we have a lower tolerance for cuteness than the Japanese.)

But will Gothic Lolita gain hold in America, where Goth kids are tagged as school shooters or reduced to objects of ridicule on South Park? I'm optimistic. While there are points of convergence, Gothic Lolita is stylistically very different from Western Goth. When a survey asked “What is the purpose of your interest in Gothic Lolita?”, most girls responded “To have a sense of beauty. (P125)” Another answered, “Every girl simply wants to dress up and look cute. Lolita fashion is the tool to totally transform myself into something else. (P126)” Now isn’t that something we can all relate to?

Black nail polish is de rigeur for Goth girls, but to Lolita, it’s a total drag. She’s encouraged to use copious amounts of glitter in art class, and nobody’s stopping her from doing the same to her nails.



Lolita barters with “Dad” for a few quarters and runs to the drug store to buy: a) nail polish remover; b) clear nail polish; c) silver glitter; and d) cherry Coke from the soda fountain. She locks herself in the bathroom (“Lo! What’s taking you so long?”) to remove the remnants of last week’s candy apple polish. Our nymphet globs clear polish onto the nails of one hand (“Gimme a minute, will ya?”), then drizzles on glitter. She repeats the procedure on the other, and finishes with a second coat of clear polish.


Oh – and the mound of disco dust left in the sink? Leave it. Daddy’ll wipe it up.

Last Halloween, I dressed as Goth Minnie Mouse and went to see U.K. band The Horrors perform at Stereo NYC. (For the record, I have no idea who the dude is.)



Frontman Faris Badwan (a.k.a. Farris Rotter) endeared himself to the party-goers by spitting on them and smearing black paint on their faces. Several frat-types – who let them in?? – decided to play tug-o’-war with his mike cord. Badwan gave his provokers a Goth boot to the eye. Cue a flurry of punches and general flailing…

I don’t have much to say about The Horrors’ music, but I do enjoy their style. Much like Japan’s Ouji Aristocrats, the band pairs skinny black jeans and tight leather jackets with Victoriana. You’ll often see them in blazers, vests, top hats, and pointy-toed shoes. Eyeliner is encouraged, as are messy bowl-cuts. Around their necks: ascots, cravats, jabots, skinny ties, black silk ribbon. It's a fetching aesthetic, especially when multiplied five-fold.

I never shop at H&M or Forever 21 because the quality is atrocious (and I’m horrified by the notion that I’m wearing the same brands as mallrats – shudder). But if we all imposed fashion limits on ourselves, we’d live in a world without Bjork or Bowie or Bennie and the Jets. So I gave myself a challenge: can I put together a Gothic Lolita outfit using ubiquities from "disposable" clothing chains? Here’s what I came up with:





Blouse: Forever 21; $20; 100% polyester. I despise the material, but the ruffled front hangs in a not-unappealing manner. I tied the bottom of the blouse together instead of buttoning it up. The lacy sleevelets, a.k.a. eyesores, are pushed back.

Tank top: Shady Limited; 100% cotton. A freebie from August’s Magic Tradeshow in Las Vegas. I looked up the brand and guess what – it’s Eminem’s clothing line!

Skirt: H&M; $20; 64% polyester, 33% rayon, 3% spandex. The fabric looks a tad cheap, but I dig the silhouette and the three tiers of ruffles.

Boots: my old Doc Martens, which I re-laced with two different shades of green suede.

Pig: Monokuro Boo. A gift from the Sanrio Shop. He’s squishy.

Not bad for $40, wouldn’t you agree?

Perhaps what I love most about Gothic Lolita is the way it juxtaposes “eww” and “aww.” What more fitting way to play than with creepy-crawly toys?





You too can have an insect stuck to your chest. Assemble the following: 1) hardcore glue (Krazy works); 2) thread (black, or whatever is least distracting); 3) an unwanted flat promo button/pin (“Al Gore for President”); and 4) a plastic toy insect (preferably Insecta or Arachnida). I found my cockroach and spider in a Canadian dollar store.

To make the accessory: 1) apply glue to the surface of the button; 2) firmly press the insect on top; 3) create a seatbelt by winding thread around the pin and the insect’s torso.



The brooch can be heavy, so it works best on sturdy fabrics. For extra fun, remove the pin before meeting friends and throw it on the table at an opportune moment. Naughty, naughty!

A Gothic Lolita blouse can be taxing on the wallet (see this post) thanks to the delicate materials and intricate detailing. But with a bit of imagination and a safety pin or two, you can achieve something similar for under $25. How? Use a scarf, like this lacy, silky ruffle-fest from Sharagano in NY’s Soho. I wrapped it like a halter for an asymmetrical, textured effect. Add a black poof skirt, tights, and ankle boots – and you’ll still have bucks for hamachi sashimi.